Give ne back my hat!

Another car repair dilemma

You guys are probably sick of me by now but I'll post it anyway as I wait for my credit card dispute to go through.  FYI I filed a dispute the other day re the other issue I posted about, money has been refunded, but it is still pending an investigation.  The credit card company has not heard back from the shop yet.  They asked me for more information.

So anyway....there was a recall on my car that had something to do with the door latches.  I took it into the dealer, had it repaired, and started hearing a noise when going over 40 mph.  It's a rattling noise that is a bit annoying.  I took it back and they checked the door and said it's not the door.  It was almost closing time and they said to bring it back next week.

I went back the next week, took a tech for a ride, and they narrowed it down to two things:

1) They noticed a couple of my wheel covers loose and recommended that I buy all new rims for $900.

2) They recommended replacing the under shield.  It's a foam/plastic type material that isn't going to make a noise like that.  They wrote out an estimate for over $300 to replace that.

She said something about charging me to diagnose it and I said to go ahead and but then she backtracked and said there was nothing to diagnose and it had to be one of those issues.

I removed the wheel covers so I know the wheels weren't the issue.  I saw another mechanic who said there's no way it's the shield.  I called the manufacturer and their solution is to open a ticket which will go to the dealership and they asked me to call the manager there.  I was hoping they'd send me to another dealer.

Should I volunteer to pay for the diagnosis if they find that it's NOT the door?  I have no problem with that.  But if it is the door and they botched the recall job then I shouldn't have to pay for their mistake.  Sound fair enough or am I off base?
Permalink ripped off 
December 6th, 2017 9:10pm
Do these places figure you out when you walk in? You seem to have terrible luck.

It sounds like the dealer is using the recall as an opportunity to upsell you something.

Telling you "it's *probably* expensive option #1 OR expensive option #2, pay for it so we can find out" is fucking with you.
Permalink Bored Bystander 
December 6th, 2017 9:28pm
./../developer/Joe/grunt is as unlucky with his car as he is with his job.
Permalink Just Me 
December 6th, 2017 9:58pm
> Do these places figure you out when you walk in? You seem to have terrible luck.

I never had this kind of trouble with my 10 year old old economy car.  I didn't have too many problems, and when I did, I'd go to a reliable indy shop in a nearby town they were reasonable.

When I bought this car (3-4 year old midsize car), I had trouble right off the bat when I first bought it.  The dealer that sold it to me failed to disclose it was previously a rental. They tried to screw me out of hundreds of dollars in repairs they promised.  I won that battle but it was a hassle.

I didn't really have any issues until recently with these two instances.

Maybe they think I have more money or maybe I look like a sucker, I don't know.  I've never done business with these places prior to this.  The garage I was referring to above fixed what the other shop broke.  Unfortunately roadside couldn't tow my car there since it was too far away.

> It sounds like the dealer is using the recall as an opportunity to upsell you something.
>
> Telling you "it's *probably* expensive option #1 OR expensive option #2, pay for it so we can find out" is fucking with you.

Yeah.  She even said, that they are spending time finding this issue and are not being paid for it.  I get that, but if they broke it then they should fix it.  Instead they try to blame everything but their work.

What recourse do I have?  I called the manufacturer and they're referring me back to the dealer that was playing these games.  I'm not sure talking to the manager will help because he's likely behind it.
Permalink ripped off 
December 6th, 2017 10:00pm
There's usually a heat shield around the catalytic converter and/or muffler. See if any stones have gotten in there. It's also possible the bolts have rusted off and the shield is vibrating.

Another possibility is stones getting trapped behind the splash shield on the inside of the wheels (the side away from the hub caps). They'll rattle.

The plastic splash pan/air guide on the bottom of the car is usually only needed for high speed travel and to prevent water splashing into the alternator (if it's mounted low).  High performance cars need it for thermal management, but if it's an ordinary car you can probably do without it.
Permalink Send private email xampl9 
December 6th, 2017 10:13pm
Lots of tards live kick ass lives.

Alas you're not one of them OP.
Permalink Reality Check 
December 6th, 2017 10:30pm
Dealer service departments are God Damned thieves. They're generally less skilled than good indie shops and they quite literally make up shit to sell you.

A few years ago our truck had a parasitic electrical system leak that resulted in the battery draining in 4-5 days. We paid $95 to the Ford dealer for a diagnosis and they found nothing. And suggested a new battery. They claimed that the battery needed replacement @ $200 which is 2x the going price at Auto Zone, Walmart, Sams, etc. We had just bought the battery new 2 months before.

The service writer's attitude toward me was like I was making up the problem.  But if I insisted on a solution, a new battery was what they recommended. The guy claimed this almost new battery tested bad, and when I said it was almost new he said "it tests bad, you need a new battery."

I had hooked up an ammeter and determined that there was a constant milliampere drain on the battery when the truck wasn't running. I did the math and it was enough to discharge the battery in a few days. My wife's shade tree mechanic friend eventually found a light under the hood that was out which was actually shorted, resulting in the parasitic discharge. Once he fixed that the drain went away and the battery stayed charged.

Car dealer service departments are almost always goddamned liars.
Permalink Bored Bystander 
December 6th, 2017 10:42pm
> There's usually a heat shield around the catalytic converter and/or muffler. See if any stones have gotten in there. It's also possible the bolts have rusted off and the shield is vibrating.

> Another possibility is stones getting trapped behind the splash shield on the inside of the wheels (the side away from the hub caps). They'll rattle.

> The plastic splash pan/air guide on the bottom of the car is usually only needed for high speed travel and to prevent water splashing into the alternator (if it's mounted low).  High performance cars need it for thermal management, but if it's an ordinary car you can probably do without it.

It could be something like that.  I'd have to get the under shield off to even see that, which is a pain in the ass.

Maybe I'll just take it off and then look under there.  if it's really necessary then order another shield.  I don't think the fucking deal is going to fess if it's a door issue unless I rule everything else out unless I'm willing to pay them $150 so they could spend 2-3 hours "diagnosing" it.
Permalink ripped off 
December 6th, 2017 11:01pm
Yeah yeah, RC, tell us all about your exciting life.
Permalink ripped off 
December 6th, 2017 11:02pm
> Car dealer service departments are almost always goddamned liars.

Yep.  I don't have much experience dealing with them but the few experiences I've had have been not-so-great.  Even if you go to get what is supposed to be free work done (due to manufacturer defects), they still try to scam you.  All I want is for them to take responsibility for the issue they likely caused.  The auto industry is full of scam artists it seems.
Permalink ripped off 
December 6th, 2017 11:05pm
Dealer services locks. Fucks something up that starts rattling.

Hey dealer, fix what you fucked up.

Dealer - "Hm, well friend, looks to us like you need 4 new rims for $900. That should fix that rattle right up. And if it don't, we got another nostrum we can sell ya."

W. T. F.

Dot, we know you're a troll and liar, but sometimes amusing, but come on now. This is such obvious bullshit.
Permalink Reality Check 
December 6th, 2017 11:21pm
It's not bullshit, dude.  Why the fuck would I make this shit up?  You don't ever have problems like this?

The wheels had wheel covers.  The covers are supposed to be locked in place.  Three out of the four were loose but still attached.  They jiggled it back and forth thinking they made the noise.  Make sense now?  Geez.
Permalink ripped off 
December 6th, 2017 11:33pm
I think it's quite clear what you should have done there.

https://thumbs.gfycat.com/ThriftySkeletalAfricanbushviper-max-1mb.gif
Permalink X 
December 6th, 2017 11:37pm
Here ya go, RC, if you think I'm bullshitting ya.

https://i.imgur.com/HQVBzBq.jpg
Permalink ripped off 
December 6th, 2017 11:47pm
X, do you have anything useful to add to the thread? :)  What are your experiences with mechanics and dealerships?
Permalink ripped off 
December 6th, 2017 11:48pm
Nothing in particular. Good luck with the chargeback. I think you deserve it.
Permalink X 
December 6th, 2017 11:52pm
Hm. OK. I guess if you're trolling you're so dedicated to it that I should take you seriously since either that written estimate is legit, or you went to a hell of a lot of trouble to fake it, which respects the integrity of this board.

Amazing. Car rattles so they want $900 to replace the rims.

And you removed the hubcaps and verified it still rattles. Something they didn't bother to do.

Bored is right! Fuck the dealer! This all here is bullshit!
Permalink Reality Check 
December 6th, 2017 11:54pm
It's legit, unfortunately.

> Amazing. Car rattles so they want $900 to replace the rims.

And if that didn't work then they are looking at $300+ on replacing that shield shield.

What happens if they replace all that and there is still a noise?  I guess then they wouldn't charge me to look into it further lol.

When I questioned her, she said something about believing her "ASE certified mechanic".  She was basically saying spend $1200 if you want us to look at it further.

I even offered to pay them their hourly fee to diagnose it further but they were confident that the rims and/or shield was the issue.

> And you removed the hubcaps and verified it still rattles. Something they didn't bother to do.

Yep.  And they said that you can't just buy the hubcaps, you have to replace the entire thing.  The wheels actually don't look bad without the caps so I just left them off.

> Bored is right! Fuck the dealer! This all here is bullshit!

Yeah.  I called the manufacturer and they referred me right back to that same dealer.  Now it's like I have to call them out on their bullshit as they figure out another scheme to try and get money out of me.  Again, I don't mind paying them if it's not the door making the noise, but it likely is and if it is then they need to fix it.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 12:07am
Thanks, X.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 12:09am
Why would you volunteer to pay for diagnosis?

Normally they will ether charge you, or they won't. 

If you go in with "Hey, charge me", then guess what they will do?
Permalink Legion 
December 7th, 2017 12:12am
"you can't just buy the hubcaps, you have to replace the entire thing"

OMG. Yeah, no.

fuck this dealership and the horse they rode in on!
Permalink Reality Check 
December 7th, 2017 12:18am
> Why would you volunteer to pay for diagnosis?

I went in a couple weeks after the recall repair and bitched about the rattling.  They took the door panel off, looked around, and couldn't find the issue.

I took it back again a week later and there were different people there.  I took the tech for a drive and he could hear the rattle.  He looked at it for about 45 minutes maybe.  The girl at the service desk came out and then told me what they thought the issue was.  I questioned her and then she dropped the "ASE certified mechanic" line and then said that I've been there almost an hour and flat out said they are going to have to start charging me as this was being done for free.  I called her bluff and said "go ahead".  Then she asked if 30 minutes was fine and I said yes. 

She goes back out there and then comes back and basically says there's nothing else to diagnose.  She (and the young tech) seemed confident it was the tires or shield.  It's not.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 12:28am
> fuck this dealership and the horse they rode in on!

And that's why I don't want to go back.  Maybe I should call the manufacturer and tell them I want to go to another dealership.  I figure this one is going to try and get money out of me one way or another, even if they were totally at fault and the noise is coming from the door that they worked on.

Recall means fix the problem - not fix one problem and create another problem and deny that you created that problem.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 12:30am
Years ago I used to always come away feeling totally ripped-off over car maintenance. Even simple stuff like tyres.

I used to go to a really friendly old guy for my tyres, he always greeted me warmly, shook my hand, bought me a coffee, etc.

I always had a vague suspicion about his prices.

I eventually decided to try one of the large chains/franchises.

No friendly greeting
No free coffee
Half the price
Permalink Grumpy Old Git 
December 7th, 2017 1:43am
>The girl at the service desk

Why the fuck would she know anything about car maintenance?

She just passes on the messages.

Do you think the receptionist at DuPont is an expert on thermoplastics?
Permalink Grumpy Old Git 
December 7th, 2017 1:50am
If you google ASE certification...

They are CBT exams, nothing practical
They are generic, not specific
Considered worthless without experience
Look good on your CV (heard that before!)
Look good on the wall
Permalink Grumpy Old Git 
December 7th, 2017 2:00am
Did you buy this car at the dealership you were taking it to? I've noticed in New England (and Chicago), that dealerships act like middle schoolers - if you take the car back to where you bought it from, you get much better service than if you take it to a different dealership.

ASE certification is pretty much the only automotive certification at all. In some places, counties/states license technicians and the licensing requirements call for ASE certs. If someone *doesn't* have an ASE cert, they're either new or incapable of passing the tests (which I found to be more common than I would have expected).
Permalink Pie 
December 7th, 2017 7:47am
Some car manufacturers have advanced certifications specifically for their ranges of cars - BMW, Mercedes etc.
Permalink Zaq 
December 7th, 2017 7:52am
Your new car repair dilemma brings up some reasons why I don't work on other people's cars (unless I know them very well AND they are working on it with me).  You know this new rattle didn't exist before the recall work on the latch, but how does the dealer know this?  If you're running a repair shop, how often do you have people trying to get you to fix things that aren't related to the repair you made?  It's like what I've read here on CoT many times.  You helped a relative with their computer, but now when something is wrong with it, it's because you did something when you fixed the earlier problem.

My best advice for this current problem is spend as much time as you can to try and determine the source of the rattle.  You may need another person in the car with you or even outside the car to pin point it.  Can you reproduce it at slower speeds going over a small bumps or brick roads (my downtown is brick and really brings out the rattles)?  Having someone on the outside listening and walking along the car as it makes the noise may be the only way to pin point where the sound is coming from.  Once you know you can start looking for loose parts that may cause a rattle.  May need it on ramps to get under to be able to thoroughly check. They may have dropped a bolt inside the body when replacing the latch (very easy to do).  You may have to live with something like that, but you want to make sure that it's not something seriously wrong making the noise.
Permalink Mountain_Dewd 
December 7th, 2017 9:25am
The only way to win is not to play.

Once you commit to the throwaway solution, the feeling of freedom is amazing.

No more...

Servicing
Oil changes
Tyres
Car washes
Disputes
Safety checks
Brake relining
Worrying about depreciation
Dent and chip repairs
Theft
Fraud

...just petrol and drive.
Permalink Grumpy Old Git 
December 7th, 2017 9:37am
> Why the fuck would she know anything about car maintenance?

She thinks she does.

She had a bitchy demeanor btw, especially if you question her.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 9:38am
> Did you buy this car at the dealership you were taking it to? I've noticed in New England (and Chicago), that dealerships act like middle schoolers - if you take the car back to where you bought it from, you get much better service than if you take it to a different dealership.

I did not.  They are 75 miles away so a little far.  Plus I had problems with them when I first bought the car.  The manager broke some promises that he made and kept giving me the run around.  I won that fight after writing a letter to the owners.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 9:41am
> Your new car repair dilemma brings up some reasons why I don't work on other people's cars (unless I know them very well AND they are working on it with me).  You know this new rattle didn't exist before the recall work on the latch, but how does the dealer know this?  If you're running a repair shop, how often do you have people trying to get you to fix things that aren't related to the repair you made?  It's like what I've read here on CoT many times.  You helped a relative with their computer, but now when something is wrong with it, it's because you did something when you fixed the earlier problem.


I know what you mean.  That's the reason I don't work on people's computer as well unless they are close relatives.  I could understand that they are cynical.  I could buy that it is a coincidence if it's not the door causing the issue.  Otherwise, the timing makes it obvious that it's something they did, even though they will likely not admit it. 

> My best advice for this current problem is spend as much time as you can to try and determine the source of the rattle.  You may need another person in the car with you or even outside the car to pin point it. 

Strangely you can't hear the noise if the window is rolled down.  This leads me (and a mechanic at another shop who noticed it while working on the other problem I had) to believe that it's internal (i.e. door).  What is also strange is that one time I had two passengers (front and back) and the noise was pretty much non-existent.  It's not the seat belt latches as I played around with them.

> Can you reproduce it at slower speeds going over a small bumps or brick roads (my downtown is brick and really brings out the rattles)? 

Nope.  It's only when I hit 40 and above.  The faster you go, the louder it gets.

> Having someone on the outside listening and walking along the car as it makes the noise may be the only way to pin point where the sound is coming from.  Once you know you can start looking for loose parts that may cause a rattle.  May need it on ramps to get under to be able to thoroughly check. They may have dropped a bolt inside the body when replacing the latch (very easy to do).  You may have to live with something like that, but you want to make sure that it's not something seriously wrong making the noise.

Maybe the first order of business is to remove that under shield completely, although I hate to do it this time of the year when it's snowing, to test the dealer's theory that this is causing it.  That is doubtful since the material is made of foamy/plastic type material.  It wouldn't get loud enough to be able to hear it inside the car.

I was thinking remove it which requires it to be jacked up or placed on a lift and it has some odd bolts that that doesn't seem to fit any of my tools.  Maybe one day I will remove it or take it in and have someone else remove it if it's too much of a pain in the ass and then look/drive around and go from there. 

So you're basically saying not to expect any luck with the dealer unless I'm willing to pay hundreds of dollars?
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 9:52am
> The only way to win is not to play.

> Once you commit to the throwaway solution, the feeling of freedom is amazing.

If I didn't have a 100 mile round got commute, I'd just buy a beater and junk the car when it gets to be too troublesome. 

Perhaps I should have purchased the extended warranty.  The car had its original warranty when I bought it but since it had 30k miles, it did not last long.  I was thinking fucking paying $1500 for an extended warranty.  When all is said and done, I'll be paying almost that or even more by the time I hit 100k.  Not too far from there now actually.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 9:57am
My current clunker easily handled a 130 mile daily commute.

$1,500 for your extended warranty...

...would keep me in clunkers for 3 years.
Permalink Grumpy Old Git 
December 7th, 2017 10:23am
I had a friend that does what grumpy does. He has a "new" used car every year. I don't have the time to go to motor vehicle agency to register and getting new insurance every year.

Plus, it can break down any time.
Permalink BibimbapClinton 
December 7th, 2017 10:33am
If you have money, just lease it and you never see a repair bill.
Permalink BibimbapClinton 
December 7th, 2017 10:35am
Grumpy, I saw a 2004 Chevy Cavalier on Craigslist the other day with 50,000 miles for $2200.

I was actually entertaining the thought of selling my car and buying that clunker.  I drove Cavaliers for 15 years prior to this car, with little trouble.  I was never stranded and towed home in a Cavalier.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 10:36am
> If you have money, just lease it and you never see a repair bill.

Unfortunately not too economical when you have a long commute.  I have a relative who leased his car when he worked locally.  He lost that job and now has to commute to the city again so he has to try and get out of that agreement and then buy a car.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 10:38am
Lease cars often have mileage limits with severe penalties for exceeding them.
Permalink Grumpy Old Git 
December 7th, 2017 10:44am
It's tough to get ahead on cars.
Permalink Mike 
December 7th, 2017 10:51am
“My current clunker easily handled a 130 mile daily commute.”

130 miles is a long ass commute.
Is that round trip?
Permalink Q 
December 7th, 2017 11:15am
Round trip.
Permalink Grumpy Old Git 
December 7th, 2017 11:17am
It seems like if that under shield was loose you'd hear it over bumps. 

Can't hear it with the window down.  Not sure if there's just too much wind and road noise drowning out the rattle.

Didn't make the noise when passengers in front and back.  Sounding like it could be suspension related.  There's a number of suspension parts that can cause that sound at speed.  Anything from a bad strut to a worn bushing. 

You're suspecting the door so it seems like you could hear if it's coming from there or at a wheel (noises are tricky to locate).  But the dealer thought it was a wheel so I guess suspension parts aren't out of the question. Does you 100 mile commute take you near Michigan?
Permalink Mountain_Dewd 
December 7th, 2017 11:40am
A couple things I like about old clunkers.

They usually don't have all that tracking bullshit on them.

The don't have a weird ass remote disable switch.

They don't have microphones that listen to everything you say.

There's no stupid engine light that requires weird computer gear.

They are easy to work on.

You can get parts for them.

You can find random Mexican dudes who can fix them for a case of beer.
Permalink Reality Check 
December 7th, 2017 3:16pm
>You can find random Mexican dudes

I thought for a minute you were going to say...

...hiding in the trunk
Permalink Zaq 
December 7th, 2017 3:24pm
> It seems like if that under shield was loose you'd hear it over bumps.

Yes, makes sense.

> Can't hear it with the window down.  Not sure if there's just too much wind and road noise drowning out the rattle.

I don't think it's the wind drowning out the noise, but I guess it is possible.

> Didn't make the noise when passengers in front and back.  Sounding like it could be suspension related.  There's a number of suspension parts that can cause that sound at speed.  Anything from a bad strut to a worn bushing. 

Not long after I went to the dealer for the recall work, I had a relative of mine change out the tires and he wasn't sure where to jack the car.  I wonder if he jacked it in the wrong spot and screwed something up.

> You're suspecting the door so it seems like you could hear if it's coming from there or at a wheel (noises are tricky to locate).  But the dealer thought it was a wheel so I guess suspension parts aren't out of the question. Does you 100 mile commute take you near Michigan?

It is not out of the question.  Nope, not near Michigan. You know of a good shop there?
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 9:01pm
Good points, RC, good points.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 9:01pm
I got a letter from the manufacturer stating that they regret to inform me that I am not eligible for financial assistance to address my issue.  I don't want financial assistance, I just want them to fix it if they broke it.  I just need to prove that they broke it or else find out what the real issue is.  Guess I am on my own unless I take it to the indy shop that fixed my PCV last week as they are pretty straight up.
Permalink ripped off 
December 7th, 2017 9:05pm
"Not long after I went to the dealer for the recall work, I had a relative of mine change out the tires and he wasn't sure where to jack the car.  I wonder if he jacked it in the wrong spot and screwed something up."

Starts at 40 and gets louder as you go faster plus tires were just changed makes me wonder if a tire wasn't balanced properly. Could be a defect in the tire too. Could also be as simple as the lug nuts need tightening (and tightened to the proper torque spec). Not sure if these tire issues would be more of a vibration then a rattle (although loose lug nuts could make a rattle). 

Improper jacking could have damaged a suspension component. Unibody cars have a 4 locations on on the car (one near each wheel) that you can jack the car at.  This jack location is only as wide as the jack.  To properly work on a car you need to have sturdy jack stansds in place. Only problem is you lift the car with a jack but now somehow you need to swap the jack with a jack stand. This forces most people to jack the car up under the control arm so they can place the jackstand at the proper lift location.  It's possible something did get damaged in the process.

I only mention Michigan because I'm pretty sure I could locate the source of the noise.  I'm starting to think the dealer did damage you car fixing the door latch. If you told the about the tires being change the may have been able to find the problem. If you had the tires done at a tire shop they would probably fix it under warranty if its a faulty tire.
Permalink Mountain_Dewd 
December 8th, 2017 2:48am
>long after I went to the dealer for the recall work, I had a relative of mine change out the tires and he wasn't sure where to jack the car.  I wonder if he jacked it in the wrong spot and screwed something up.

Jeez, you're such an idiot.

Great trolling though , you got us all going.
Permalink Grumpy Old Git 
December 8th, 2017 3:05am
Yeah why wouldn't he mention that in the original post?

He says:

"I took it into the dealer, had it repaired, and started hearing a noise when going over 40 mph."

After back and forth for a full day, this becomes:

"I took it into the dealer, had it repaired, then sometime afterwards I had an unlicensed guy jack it up and he couldn't find the jack point so just crammed it in there, then after that I started hearing a noise when going over 40 mph. So must be the dealer screwed things up right?"
Permalink Reality Check 
December 8th, 2017 5:45am
Unfortunately ripped off it sounds like your relative didn't save you any money with the tires and he probably doesn't have any kind of warranty.  Even if you mention this problem to him he probably won't admit to it.  Too much time has passed and he'll just say you hit a big pot hole and broke something. Take it to a place that specializes in suspension work (or that trusted mechanic) and they'll get it fixed.  Just don't take it to a dealer, they'll only want to use factory replacement parts and it will cost a lot more.
Permalink Mountain_Dewd 
December 8th, 2017 6:38am
The questions here are endless:

Why not mention it earlier?

Why change all the tires?
Why use a relative?

If they expressed doubts:
  Why go ahead anyway?
  Why not do the jacking yourself?

Wouldn't someone with the equipment to replace tires:
  Know about jacking points?
  Have a proper lift?

Has it occurred to you that maybe the idiot relative forgot to tighten the wheel nuts properly?
Permalink Zaq 
December 8th, 2017 6:57am
Checking the lug nuts would be my first step.
Permalink Mountain_Dewd 
December 8th, 2017 7:19am
It's an easy mistake to make because you do the nuts finger tight, then lower the jack enough to prevent free rotation and then fully tighten, then fully lower.

If something happens to distract you (like dot engaging you in his usual inane conversation), you can easily skip that bit.

I did it once, the noise gets progressively worse, presumably until the wheel falls off (if you ignore it).

It's not something I'll do again.
Permalink Zaq 
December 8th, 2017 7:28am
"The questions here are endless"

Yeah.

What will be the next installment?


Well, when I had the engine and fuel tank replaced...

Wait, when was that?

After the dealer fixed the lock and before the rattle started.

Who did it?

Some homeless guys.

How long was it after the dealer replace the lock that you heard the rattle?

Oh, I guess about seven years?
Permalink Reality Check 
December 8th, 2017 9:14am
Six months later...

Guys guess what, I replaced the hubcaps and rims and the rattle went away so the dealer was right after all.

Yeah, I guess the fact that Tony had taken a sledgehammer to the rims when I had him replace the inner tubes got them bent and the hubcaps didn't fit.
Permalink Reality Check 
December 8th, 2017 9:16am
> Starts at 40 and gets louder as you go faster plus tires were just changed makes me wonder if a tire wasn't balanced properly. Could be a defect in the tire too. Could also be as simple as the lug nuts need tightening (and tightened to the proper torque spec). Not sure if these tire issues would be more of a vibration then a rattle (although loose lug nuts could make a rattle). 

Some of the lug nuts were stripped on the front tires (from a previous job) and that is what the $30 bill at the dealer was for.  When I went there to have them investigate the noise, I also had them replace the lug nuts on the front tires. 

> Improper jacking could have damaged a suspension component. Unibody cars have a 4 locations on on the car (one near each wheel) that you can jack the car at.  This jack location is only as wide as the jack.  To properly work on a car you need to have sturdy jack stansds in place. Only problem is you lift the car with a jack but now somehow you need to swap the jack with a jack stand. This forces most people to jack the car up under the control arm so they can place the jackstand at the proper lift location.  It's possible something did get damaged in the process.

He just used the jack on each side, no jack stand.

> I only mention Michigan because I'm pretty sure I could locate the source of the noise.  I'm starting to think the dealer did damage you car fixing the door latch. If you told the about the tires being change the may have been able to find the problem. If you had the tires done at a tire shop they would probably fix it under warranty if its a faulty tire.

Thanks for the offer anyway.  That was my bad to have the relative do it to save a few bucks.  He actually changed them the year before and one tire was damaged after hitting a pothole and since there was no warranty, I had to buy two new hires (since it's not a good idea to replace one) and took it back there to have them replace them.  Next time I'm going to a tire shop.  Lesson learned.
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December 8th, 2017 12:50pm
> Jeez, you're such an idiot.

Fuck off.
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December 8th, 2017 12:51pm
> Yeah why wouldn't he mention that in the original post?

I didn't hear it until after I went to the dealer.  Although there could have been a sound prior to but didn't hear it because windows were rolled down (it was warmer then)
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December 8th, 2017 12:53pm
> What will be the next installment?

Do you really want to know?  Had something else happen. :(
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December 8th, 2017 12:53pm
> Unfortunately ripped off it sounds like your relative didn't save you any money with the tires and he probably doesn't have any kind of warranty. 

He saved me money, at first, but I paid in the long run. 

> Even if you mention this problem to him he probably won't admit to it.

Nope

> Too much time has passed and he'll just say you hit a big pot hole and broke something. Take it to a place that specializes in suspension work (or that trusted mechanic) and they'll get it fixed. 


Yeah.  Have to go back to them anyway since it's SLOWLY leaking coolant (that rogue shop didn't even fix that problem fully the 2nd time)

> Just don't take it to a dealer, they'll only want to use factory replacement parts and it will cost a lot more.

True
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December 8th, 2017 12:55pm
> Wouldn't someone with the equipment to replace tires:
  Know about jacking points?
  Have a proper lift?

He doesn't have a proper lift.  He SHOULD know the proper jacking points.  I think he was thrown off because of that stupid under shield.

> Has it occurred to you that maybe the idiot relative forgot to tighten the wheel nuts properly?

They were replaced by the dealer after that.  I bought them from rockauto.com and took them to the dealer and had them replace them.
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December 8th, 2017 12:56pm